We are gearing up. Did you know that black truffles from Perigord are wholesaling at €1,000 a kilo? I burnt through at least a ton*on my
own yesterday. For this year’s fêtes,
like every year, we will shift somewhere in the region of 100 kilos of foie
gras. A poularde **from Bresse can
easily cost 60 quid at this time of year; it comes with its fluffy white neck
and head protruding from a cloth bag, neatly sewn up in a tight parcel which
conserves its modesty and hides its rather splendid blue feet. We also have
capons and turkeys, langoustes and
salmon. White and black puddings, patés
en croûte, terrines and suckling piggies. C’est la fête, quoi!
We’re getting ready for the big day at home too. I made pate en croûte yesterday at work, but in our house I made a pork pie. Of
course, it is a very similar beast, but it’s not quite the same. It’s better. No foie gras†: the british version is more
boldly seasoned, with herbs and spices and a more open texture; slightly
wobbly, tasty jelly; lard replaces butter – and the pastry kicks ass! A home-made
pork pie is a revelation.
I can heartily recommend the version in Hugh
Fearnly-Whittingstall’s Meat book.
Not only does it have a well-thought-through set of picture instructions, but
the pastry is a winner and the filling works a treat. I pretty much just do
what he says, although I’ve taken to adding the meat from my trotter stock to
the pie because it adds a nice richness. Also, Hugh doesn’t discuss how to
judge the seasoning properly. You can either follow his quantities blindly, or
guess, or, as I do, fry a small pattie of your mix, and eat it, so as to be
able to judge for yourself. It takes a bit of effort to make, after all, so you
want to make sure it’s worth it... 
It’s an impressive beast – a festival for the season of generosity.
Just the thing to have waiting in the wings for when guests descend. Or the
post-pub posse. A jar of chutney and a pickled onion and Bob’s your barman!
Happy Christmas everyone!
* Money, not weight.
** Girl chicken.
† Well, not none.
We’re having foie gras as well! We do
live in the South West of France...
